April 15, 2008...5:18 pm

The fat lady sings

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Once the haze of St. Patrick’s day had cleared, we needed to get our heads Busy boytogether and work out exactly what we were going to do. Most of the overland truck folk had gone, leaving me, Linz, Simon, Brian and Tony the truck driver. Tony and Brian were heading out to Point Noire to stick the truck on a boat before flying themselves to Cape Town and Simon was waiting for his flight back to England.

We knew there was an outside chance of an Angolan visa in Point Noire, if we bought plane tickets to Luanda, then got them refunded after we had the visa in our hands. We’d heard this had worked for a Japanese guy, but hadn’t heard about his experiences of getting into Angola with his bike. The only clear option was to fly our two bike convoy to Windhoek, Namibia and then follow the tar road south to Cape Town.

The Namibia route made sense, but we never set out to just reach Cape Town, our aim was to travel the world. However, a recent chat with the bank and a short journey back to reality had clipped our plans for world travel and left us heading for New Zealand to work once we left Africa. After some discussion we had resolved to head back to the UK for a few months, sell the bikes (another story) and head out to New Zealand in July.

Windhoek to Capetown was just 1500km and, with empty pockets, it didn’t look like we would be able to experience much of what Namibia and South Africa had to offer. So we decided to call it a day in Brazzaville, just a few days less than a year on the road and a little over 22000 miles since we left home. We figured that Angola, Namibia and South Africa would still be there in a few years time and we had already hatched a plan for a run down the East side of Africa when we’ve raised some cash.

Bikes in a boxWe set the ball rolling at the SDV freight office at Brazzaville Airport. They seemed organised, if a little expensive, but promised to ship our bikes to Paris with Air France. The first task was to build a box for the bikes and SDV had a warehouse in the city centre where this took place. Linz and I removed the front wheels and handlebars from the bikes to make them as small as possible, the freight cost was dependant on the box size, so every centimetre saved would be money saved.

Easter weekend delayed us and the SDV office was closed until the Tuesday after, but we were on their doorstep early in the morning to get the bikes and the box off to the airport. At the SDV office at Maya Maya Airport we handed over wads of cash and signed various bits of paper and were promised a Friday departure for the bikes. We headed off back to town to organise our own flights for Monday.

The rest of the week was spent exploring Brazzaville’s fine restaurants and enjoying the intermittent water and electricity supply at the cheap hotel we called home. On Friday we returned to the airport to finalise the customs paperwork and confirm the departure, all went well despite customs trying to charge us to stamp the papers! On Monday we were stood at the airport waiting to checkin and the reality of the situation started to dawn on us. This was it, the trip was over, the bikes were already in Paris and we weren’t far behind… it was confusing, we were happy to be moving again, depressed to not be on the bikes and we were heading North instead of South. We spent the rest of the day in a plane trying to make sense of our feelings and wondering what it would be like to touch ground in Europe.

Snow CapsWe arrived close to midnight and took a taxi to a hotel, all the while marvelling at the relative splendour of Paris after 3 weeks in Brazzaville. The next morning, Tuesday, was strange, Paris seemed like a different planet and we slowly began to realise how much we had settled into riding through Africa. The day didn’t bring good news though, it soon became apparent that our bikes had never left Brazzaville, it was April Fool’s Day and we thought it might be a sick joke, but it wasn’t.

By Wednesday afternoon, after several confusing phone calls, we had arranged to get our bikes moving with a different freight carrier, they would arrive in Paris the following Tuesday, April 8th. We could ill afford the week in Paris, but decided to stick around and ride the bikes home to give our family and friends a big surprise. There’s plenty to do in Paris and we took in a tour of the Louvre Museum, Champs d’Elysees and various other tourist spots. It helped to pass the time and was a reasonable way to help us get back into European society, it was difficult at first, but the days became easier.

Tuesday 8th arrived, but our bikes didn’t…  we tried in vain to get useful information from the Brazzaville connection, but they were next to useless. We did some internet research and found numbers for our freight company in Belgium and after a a little effort we were talking to a helpful lady in Paris who informed us our bikes would arrive in Amsterdam on April 14th and would be moved to Paris, by truck, shortly after. Although this was later than expected and nobody had mentioned a truck, at least we had some useful info.

Linz @ the LouvreWe’d had enough of Paris, so we hired a car and drove through the night to get home to North West England. We decided to see Linz’s brother first, knocked on his door at 7 in the morning and laughed at his look of utter confusion! We spent the next 2 days driving around and surprising folk and explaining what the hell we were doing back home. It’s good to see some familiar faces, but it still feels wrong to not be riding the bikes every day, I guess that will get better as the weeks trundle by.

So that’s it, we’re back in the UK for the rest of the year to earn some dough. In the New Year we are off to New Zealand to see what that brings, and at some point in the next few years we’ll be back on two wheels, going somewhere else, perhaps East Africa, or maybe somewhere else.. one thing is for certain though, next time we’ll get Linz a bike where she can touch the floor!

Thanks for the comments and emails over the last year, they helped to keep us smiling and it’s good to know we’ve raised a smile or two. Our blog has been intentionally non-technical and perhaps not so useful to other travellers, but if you’re planning a trip and want to pick our brains, feel free to drop us an email.

Thanks, Dan and Linz

11 Comments

  • Oh man,
    what a sad story.
    I feel really sad for you. All the typical
    african implications of travelling there seem
    to have gathered at that point in Brazza.
    I wish you good (and more) luck for the next
    stages of your journey.
    Maybe we’ll meet in east Africa.
    Liebe Grüße
    Michael

  • welcome back guys. too bad your journey has ended quite sooner than you expected, but im sure there will be other chances to complete it, and that your trip through africa has already been a fantastic adventure. Peace!!

  • silly old tart (mum)

    Surely this first leg was just the recci for the ones to follow……..as you’re ” doting parents ” of course we are really pleased to have you home for a while, but we do understand the dissappointment you must feel that the adventure was interrupted this way.
    Next time you set off you will be so much more knowledgeable of the potential hazards……..not that it will protect you from them any better (im referring to you’re spacial awareness Dan)….seriously though me and dad will enjoy you’re company for a while , great to hear all about the adventure. And we will look forward with you both towards whatever comes next ………that’s the great thing about life , to quote Forest gump ” my momma says life is like a box of choclits, you never know what you’re gonna get ”
    And on that phylosophical note I will sign off for now.
    Loads of love and hugs from the olds oxoxoxox

  • Guys…that’s really a pity. Really sorry to hear about your troubles.

    There we had your ‘runners-up’ beer nice and chilled in the fridge awaiting your arrival and then you decide to rather head to icy Europe.

    But seriously, we look forward to seeing you guys finishing the last leg of your trip soon.

    All the best and hope to see you in SA some time.

  • It’s been an epic adventure – I’m sure there must be a book in you guys after that lot! The complete and utter shock you gave me when I saw you at the petrol station last week will be forever etched in my memory. Although you’re back earlier than anticipated, it is great to know you’re both safe and well – and keen to plan the second leg. You’re an inspiration to us all. Anything you need, just give us a shout…..

  • Hi Dan and Linz,
    One year on tour, 22000 miles over roads and tracks, many new friends, lost of experiences… Lots of reasons to feel good! And thereby, new plans are already in the making. Unfortunately not to Morocco…
    All the best to you both and greetings from us, Peter and Zineb and Selma. Also to both your parents!!!!

  • Jason and Carin

    Hi Guys,
    Sorry to hear of your return, glad your both safe and well. Angola and the DRC was a killer place for us all, we couldn’t get through either, nor Orrin and Torsten.
    We put our car into a container 2 month ago in Point Noire and its still in Africa, somewhere. We flew to Namibia and met some great people who rented us their V8 landrover and we spent a fantastic month exploring.
    Please send us your phone number as we would love to give you a call.
    Its hard coming back, we really know how you feel.
    Lots of love Jay and Carin

  • we can imagine how you feel at the moment. So often we looked at your website to get to know where you are.

    We stayed very long in Libreville to decide where we want to go. But it seems all routes end before Angola. On the end we decided to fly to East Africa – Tansania. Now we are sitting in Dar-Es-Salaam and its nearly raining every day.

    We think you made a wonderful journey. You saw Africa as not many people will see it. We hope you will find a nice place in New Zealand. All the best for you.

  • Hiya mate, gutted that your adventures have been been put on hold for the mean time but on a selfish note would be great to see you and catch up over a glass of wine,(or maybe the bottle) if you can make it down pilling lane without being hit! love and hugs carly xxxx.

  • Hi Linz and Dan,

    Remember my sister, her husband and me in Yankari? With interest I have been following your trip (if NEPA permits, here in Zaria) and was very sad when reading your last update. There was no indication towards an early retreat. I was keen to follow your story until arriving South Africa. I am happy you took all in good faith and if you want to start all over again, dont hesitate and make sure you visit us in Zaria! Best greetings from Ernest

  • Hi Dan and Linz,

    It was really good riding with you in Senegal, Gambia & Burkina. Too bad that you couldn’t get through although i don’t think you were alone with visa troubles for Angola. A friend of mine got deported from Kinchaser back to Brasserville.

    Get onto planning the next big trip and enjoy the English summer.

    Cheers,

    MB


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